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Bernier, in flip, bought the house in 1967 to Aage Korschen, a Dane, and his German spouse, Wera. The couple had misplaced their farm in the Kenyan Highlands after the country won independence and they decided to leave Africa. But after setting sail for Europe from Mombasa, they stopped in Lamu. Taken by its remoteness and great beauty, they purchased a home and opened the small lodge, then with simply four bedrooms. One afternoon, I took a young from the dhow to explore the ruins of Takwa, a as soon as-thriving trading town on Manda that was abandoned in the seventeenth century. We motored slowly up a slim creek lined with mangrove forests rich in spiny lobster and shrimp, and when the clear water became too shallow to navigate, we walked, coming finally to a clearing. The remains of a grand mosque dominate the site, its outer walls etched with images of sailing dhows and Arabian daggers.

Hayling Island was also where the Combined Operations Pilotage Parties unit was based, which was pivotal to the success of the D-Day Landings. To commemorate Hayling’s struggle effort, a four mile (6.5km) WWII Heritage Trail opened in 2012 and winds around the Mulberry …